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Bespoke suits are the ultimate in style, and whether you wear suits to work every single day or you just save them for special occasions, you really can’t do better. After all, the bespoke suits you buy should fit your body perfectly and be made to your exact specifications, at least if you hire an experienced and professional tailor.

There’s more to getting the perfect style for your bespoke suits than you might think. That’s why we’ve put together this style guide to help. Use it and you’ll be the best-dressed guy in the room whenever you’re wearing your bespoke suits.

1. Fit comes first every time. If you’re getting bespoke suits, you need to have a tailor create the best possible fit you can get. Otherwise, you’re wasting your money.

2. You need to know your style before you come in. Your tailor can help you pick something out, but simply going through some fashion magazines or websites can help you figure out what’s right for you. Most men can identify something they like even if they don’t know what to call it.

3. Bespoke suits don’t have to follow trends. It’s your suit, and if you like wide lapels, you can have them. Don’t be a slave to trends if you don’t want to be.

4. Your bespoke suits should fit your lifestyle. If you work on Wall Street, a super-slim-cut suit may not be right for you. Take a look at what other guys are wearing around you, especially your bosses.

5. You don’t have to be exactly like your boss! Get a cut that flatters your body. Just because the big boss man is fond of double-breasted suits doesn’t mean you should be wearing them if you have a small frame.

6. Pleated pants are just fine. Some guys like the more formal look. Pleats are coming back in style too, so you’ll be ahead of the fashion game if you wear them now.

7. Huge shoulder pads are never the right choice. The 1980s are over and they aren’t coming back. Fashion might be cyclical, but that’s a trend we’re hoping stays dead for the good of the suit and your sense of style.

8. Let your tailor know about your sleeve style. Details matter when you’re getting bespoke suits made, so if you love French cuffs, let him or her know.

bespoke suits

9. Button-down shirts are fine. A lot of guys think they’re too casual, but the only problem you’ll run into is in cheap button-downs with closures that look cheap and undignified.

10. Crisp dress shirts without buttons often look better with dark suits. That’s something to keep in mind, especially if you pair dark shirts with dark suits.

11. You shouldn’t be afraid of polka dots. If you’ve got a stable of basic suits, a moderately-sized polka dot can bring a very elegant yet fun style to bespoke suits.

12. Patterns like herringbone and glen plaid will never go out of style. They’re not basic, but they’re the next step toward a truly special wardrobe when you’re getting bespoke suits made.

13. You can put stuff in your jacket pockets without worrying about losing the shape of your jacket. Use those pockets so you don’t look like your pant pockets are stuffed with your phone, wallet and anything else you carry with you.

14. There’s nothing wrong with a three-piece suit. You don’t have to wear the vest all the time, but a close-fitting one is quite modern and stylish.

15. Visible stitches can add some style to your bespoke suits. Older guys will think you’re really splurging on the best too since those stitches used to be seen as a sign of quality.

16. You should never button your bottom button. Ever. Even if your boss, father and friends do it.

17. Don’t sit down with your jacket buttoned. Not even for a minute. Learn to unfasten that button with one hand when you’re sitting down in a chair.

18. Don’t buy bespoke suits in a cheap material. If you can’t afford the good stuff, a made-to-measure suit is probably a better bet for you.

19. Ask your tailor to remove the stitching before you leave the shop. You don’t want to forget about that back vent the first time you wear your new bespoke suits.

20. Don’t be afraid of accessories. A pocket square, tie bar or lapel flower can make a basic suit extraordinary.

21. Avoid wearing too many accessories. More than two – a pocket square and tie bar, for example, is too many unless you happen to be Liberace.

bespoke suits

22. Pair contrasting pocket squares with your suits. White ones go well with dark suits and dark ones, like emerald green, can be beautiful with linen or khaki.

23. Never wear a sports watch with your suit. It doesn’t make you look hip and urban – it makes you look like you forgot to take it off after your morning run.

24. Keep your collar flat unless you’re freezing and on your way home. Especially if you’re wearing a dark suit.

25. Try tailoring your pants a little bit shorter than average. It’s a stylish look and will allow you to show off your fancy socks, which can highlight some extra colors for your standard bespoke suits.


Ralph Lauretta

Ralph is a co-owner of Sal Lauretta for Men. His areas of expertise include custom clothing as well as being the primary clothing buyer for the store. When not at work you can find him hanging out with his family, reorganizing his garage or watching a Denver Broncos game.