Every self-respecting man needs at least one elegant, custom suit. Whether it’s for business for an upcoming formal occasion, you can’t go wrong with a custom suit. You and your tailor can work together to design the perfect garment.
From the way the fabric feels to how the tailoring fits your waist and shoulders, you’re in charge of everything. Here are the top custom suit options you have to choose from and some tips for making the right selection for you.
Best Suit Materials
This is the first and perhaps most important decision to make when crafting your custom suit options. The material determines the suit’s breathability, softness, durability and comfort. Some of your options include:
- Wool: This natural material is one of the most popular custom suit options. It breathes well for use in hot weather, yet possesses great insulating qualities for cold weather.
- Cotton: As the second-most popular material behind wool, cotton breathes well to keep you cool in hot weather. However, it wrinkles more easily than wool, which can give you a sloppy look.
- Cashmere: This extremely soft luxury fabric is incredibly comfortable to wear. Unfortunately, it’s less durable than other materials, so only choose cashmere if you plan to be very gentle on your suit.
- Cashmere blend: Cashmere and wool are often blended to take advantage of wool’s strength along with cashmere’s glossy aesthetic, heavier weight and better drape. One downside is that blended suit pants don’t hold a crease very well.
- Silk: Much like a cashmere suit, a 100 percent silk suit is incredibly comfortable and luxurious. Silk has even better breathability and insulating qualities than wool. The material is available in different weights and thicknesses so you can customize your choice based on what time of year you want to wear it.
- Silk blend: Blending silk with another fabric, such as wool, is a great way to enjoy the qualities of silk while lowering the price tag. Silk blend suits drape better than suits made from more common materials.
What Patterns are Best for Suits?
Patterned suits are seeing a big revival today. While solid colors are still your safest bet for formal events, patterns are suitable for business attire as well as semi-formal occasions. Pick from many patterns today, including:
- Stripes: This common business suit pattern is preferred by shorter men, since the vertical stripes add the illusion of height.
- Herringbone: This tried-and-true pattern is often so small on suits that it’s difficult to see unless you look closely. That’s how it should be. The herringbone pattern looks best in muted shades.
- Houndstooth: Most commonly found in wool and tweed suits, this pattern is characterized by its contrasting black and white colors. The print is commonly used for women’s dresses and skirts, but when used on a suit, the pattern is much smaller and more discrete.
- Glen plaid: This woven twill design of small and large checks creates a crossing, irregular plaid pattern. It’s an old-school look that has found its way into the closets of today’s sharpest dressers.
- Windowpane: For a more lively appearance, opt for a windowpane suit pattern. It’s most commonly found on sport and casual jackets. You can go all out and pair the jacket with matching windowpane-patterned pants, but if you’re not ready for that, choose a complementary trouser in a solid color.
- Polka dots: This pattern is a great way to bring energy to a suit. Make sure the dots are large enough that onlookers can see the pattern, but not so large that they look goofy.
Custom Suit Colors
The color is one of the most substantial custom suit options when determining the appropriate applications for your custom suit, so choose wisely. The most common, conservative colors include:
- Charcoal grey: You get maximum flexibility from this choice. It complements any skin tone, can be paired with either black or brown accessories, and looks good on any body type. Charcoal grey is also appropriate for just about any occasion.
- Navy blue: While this color is a great foundation in any man’s wardrobe, it’s especially appropriate as business attire and for job interviews. The color also has a youthful feel to it, which makes it ideal for older gentlemen.
- Black: A black suit exudes an air of authority, which is perhaps why it’s the most appropriate for formal events such as weddings and funerals. You can dress a black suit up or down depending on the shirt, tie and other accessories you pair it with.
- Brown: From light tan to deep chocolate, brown is a flattering hue for many skin tones. It’s best for more casual events since some people still consider brown an inappropriate suit color for business settings.
Custom Suit Options: Select Styles
Do you prefer two or three buttons? Does a single- or double-breasted jacket sound best? If you’re not sure what’s in style right now, what works best for your body type or what is most appropriate for the event you plan to wear it at, discuss these custom suit options with your tailor.
For a classic look that lasts decades without going out of style, try a two-button jacket. For a look that’s very trendy right now, you might consider the one-button jacket. You can also browse through fashion magazines until you find a suit that closely resembles the look you want and request that style from your tailor.
Understanding Custom Suit Fit
One of the biggest benefits of having a custom-made suit is that it fits you perfectly in every place, from the shoulder pads to the waistband to the hem length. During a fitting, your tailor takes very specific measures to make a pattern for all of your custom suit options. Of course, your tailor knows how to help you look your best, but keep these tips in mind when figuring out whether a suit fits you properly:
- A slightly shorter pant hem adds distinctiveness to a simple look.
- Slim trousers, a narrow shoulder and nipped waist create a handsome silhouette.
- The pants should sit at your waist, not your hips, and you should be able to fit one finger comfortably into the waistband.
- When standing straight, the suit jacket should extend to the first knuckle on your thumb to keep your middle from looking heavy.
- A well-fitted jacket has just enough room to fit your fist between your chest and the fabric.
- The jacket sleeves should reveal one-half inch of shirt cuff.
- The shoulders should lie flat.
- The seat of your trousers should drape smoothly without pulling tightly or sagging loosely.
- Your jacket collar should rest neatly against your shirt collar, which in turn should rest against your neck.
The beauty of having so many custom suit options is that you can add any personal touches you desire. It’s your suit, so make it exactly the way you want it. Hand-pick the buttons, request special interior pockets, select a customized paisley jacket lining or request any other personal touch that will make you love your suit even more.