If you’re on the hunt for custom blazers or trousers, you’re going in a direction that’s hard to turn back from once you start. Custom blazers and trousers are made for you, and you alone.
You’ll be able to choose the style and fits you want and have them built to fit your body perfectly.
When you buy custom blazers, what you’re essentially buying is a suit jacket without the matching pants. Custom blazers can go either way – they can be used to dress up an outfit or to make an outfit less formal.
The final look depends on several factors: the blazer’s style or fit, the materials used to make the jacket and the accessories used to personalize the suits details.
Whereas custom-made suits are built to match, a blazer is not intended to perfectly match the trousers. The colors, patterns and materials are different, providing contrast that draws attention to the beauty of the blazer.
The first thing you’ll need to think of when having a custom blazer made is the style or fit of the blazer. Your tailor will ask you what type of look you’re going for and what you’re planning on using the blazer for.
Is it a blazer that you intend to wear with a pair of fitted Mathew Miller jeans or is it a jacket that you intend to wear to work on a regular basis?
Single-breasted blazer: Single-breasted blazers, like their single-breasted suit brethren, have a single column of two or three buttons that run down the front of the blazer with a tiny bit of fabric that overlaps. These blazers also have notched lapels. The relaxed and open style of the single-breasted blazer makes it easy to wear with just about anything.
Double-breasted blazer: The double-breasted blazer jacket has two rows of buttons that run down the front of the blazer and the overlapping fabric joining the two halves of the jacket is a lot wider. These blazers usually come in peak lapels, a style that is great for men trying to find blazers that accentuate their shoulders.
They also narrow at the waist, creating a powerful silhouette. Double-breasted blazers tend to be considered a lot more formal than single-breasted versions, but there are always exceptions to the rule.
The great thing about working with a tailor to create a custom blazer is that you can choose any style you’d like and then tweak it to fit your body shape. So yes, an off-the-rack double-breasted suit may make you look too boxy, but a custom-made one can make you look very GQ.
When it comes to blazer fabric, the fabrics used most often include worsted serge, flannel and worsted wool. The reason that these fabrics are frequently used for blazers is because they’re sturdy and a bit heavy, qualities you’re looking for in a blazer that will lay beautifully on top of the rest of your clothes.
Speak with your tailor about which blazer materials will be best for the way you’re going to be wearing them.
Cold-weather blazer fabrics: Cashmere is great because it combines a soft, luxurious texture with warmth and breathability, but it can also be a bit high maintenance. When cashmere is combined with a fabric like wool, you’ll get a fabric that is a lot stronger. Flannel blazers are also perfect for the cold season.
Warm-weather blazer fabrics: If the blazer is going to be worn in warm weather, you need to find fabrics that are light and breathe well. Cotton is a really popular choice for blazers worn in hot weather for these very reasons.
Linen is another great choice for a summer blazer, but it wrinkles easily and is very susceptible to stains. Linen-blend fabrics may be a better option if you want your blazer to wear harder.
Other fabrics: There are many other fabrics that can be used to create the perfect blazer. If you’re looking for something worthy of the Oscar Red Carpet, speak with your tailor about having a silk blazer made.
It feels and looks high-end and it comes with the price tag to prove it. Tweed is also a nice option if you’re going for more of a scholarly look.
The thing that sets blazers apart from suit jackets is the buttons. Suit buttons are meant to be subtle, almost blending in with the suit jacket. Blazer buttons are a key part of the blazer, meant to be decorative and to make it stand out. Think of the buttons as a key part of the personality of the suit.
How powerful are blazer buttons? By switching out the buttons on a blazer for ones of a completely different style, you’ll be looking at a brand new blazer. This is not to say that you should do that, but you could.
Button materials include brass (very common), contrasting mother-of-pearl, gunmetal, gold, pewter and silver. They can be imprinted with everything from club icons to school colors to military and anchor-style designs.
Having a pair of trousers custom made is an excellent way to make sure that your pants fit you perfectly. Pants are supposed to look good, fit well and ultimately not draw attention away from your outfit. If people’s eyes go to your pants first, that’s generally not a good thing. Pants should support your outfit and blend into it without taking center stage.
Fit: When it comes to the style and fit for custom trousers, comfort is key. You need to make sure that your trousers are loose enough for you to move around in but not so large that people stand back waiting for you to do your rendition of “Can’t Touch This.”
Your tailor will cut your trousers so that they are not so tight that they bustle near the thighs. Your tailor will also make sure that you have enough room in the pockets in order to keep your necessities without making the pockets bulge.
Pleats: You will need to decide whether you want your pants to have pleats or no pleats. The advantage to having pleats is that they allow for more give in the pants. Having pleats means that you’ll be able to move around without the pants losing their crisp lines and shapes.
Cuffs: You will need to decide if you want your pants to come with cuffs or not. Cuffs are great because they add a finished touch to the pants. They also make the pants a little bit heavier at the bottom, which in turn helps keep the pants straighter and neater looking.
Custom-made trousers can be made out of everything from cotton to linen to flannel.
Warm-weather fabrics: Trouser fabrics suitable for warm or hot weather include linen and cotton. Again, these fabrics tend to wrinkle and stain easily, so a blend may make more sense. Lighter fabrics are suitable for a more laid-back occasion. Flannel is an all-season fabric that keeps you cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
Cold-weather fabrics: Fabrics suitable for cold-weather trousers are the same as those used to make blazers, including flannel and wool.